![]() ![]() If PTgui has guesstimated a wrong projection, say Rectilinear instead of cylindrical I will change this at this point. The Panorama Editor will popup after the alignment but at this time I just close it again.Align images…” button to have PTgui automatically find control points and do the first alignment. PTgui will read the exif info so just click ok to the Camera /Lens data window.Load the images into PTgui! Select all 4 files, PTgui will automatically detect the correct order.Switch PTgui to Advanced mode by clicking the “Advanced >” button.PTgui is my panorama stitching tool of choice and here’s a step by step of how I use PTgui for a stitch like this: I export the raw files to 8 or 16 bit tiff files (depending on how much post production I think I am going to do). all have the option of copying and pasting settings and do double check before exporting that they’re all identical. The RAW files were developed in RAWshooter Premium (I now use Lightroom 2.0) and the important thing to remember is you can make all the changes you like to the raw files – just copy and paste the settings to all of the shots making sure that they are developed 100% identical! Rawshooter, Lightroom etc. I do however find I get more noticeable distortion in architectural shots when I stitch vertical images so that’s probably why I shot these horizontal. Normally I would shoot the single images vertically and I fail to remember why these are shot horizontal. This is a simple panorama, just 4 horizontal shots. ![]() It’s a long tutorial, so I split this post in two click the “Keep reading” link to, well, keep reading! To this final photo as seen in my previous post: This post focuses on stitching the shots and is a tutorial showing you how I get from these 4 developed RAW files: Get everything right in the field and you’ll be laughing come stitching time! This is with the D200 as well, results with more modern cameras would be even better.Earlier this year I wrote a blog post about stitched panoramas that focused mostly on all the little tricks you need to remember when you are shooting the soon to be stitched photos in the field. When patched, I can't easily tell which section of the nadir was shot at ISO800 and which was shot at ISO100. I have some panoramas where the main images were taken at ISO100, and the handheld nadir at ISO800. And, of course, you can always apply noise reduction to your handheld nadir shot if necessary. will help hide any noise from your handheld nadir shot. With a detailed nadir, the texture of the stone, grass, etc. I sometimes open up the aperture slightly as well (and increase the shutter speed accordingly). increase ISO by 2 stops, increase shutter speed by 2 stops. If you are shooting with a relatively slow shutter speed, boost the ISO when taking your handheld nadir shot, and increase the shutter speed by the same amount, e.g. focal length for a sharp handheld nadir image.Ī noisy nadir shot is much better than a blurry nadir shot. I find I often need a shutter speed faster than the standard rule of 1/35mm equiv. If a slow shutter speed is needed, boost the ISOĭon't forget to check your handheld nadir shots when taking them, to make sure that the shutter speed is fast enough to prevent blur. And any stretching caused by the handheld nadir being offset should be limited because you only have a small area to patch. You now only need to worry about masking in the handheld nadir to cover the small area covered by the tripod.Īssuming you placed the tripod on a relatively flat surface, you don't have to worry about any bending verticals caused by viewpoint correction of the offset handheld nadir. The solution is to take a nadir shot with the camera still mounted on the panohead before you move the tripod, then take a normal handheld nadir shot as well. But this will also make any points at a lower or higher elevation than where the control points were placed even more out of sync.ĭepending on how offset your handheld nadir shot was, you may also have problems with the nadir shot becoming overly stretched (and so soft) in certain points of the image. This can be partially fixed by using the Viewpoint correction in PTGUI. Unless you are extremely accurate at taking a handheld nadir shot at the exact position the camera was when it was mounted on the tripod, you are likely to get some parallax error between the handheld nadir shot and the rest of the panorama.
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